If champagne is meant to be more than occasion and label, 2019 is a good entry point: youthful, yet already structured. From southern Champagne, Drappier delivers wines according to the principle «substance over glamour».

Vintage champagnes are the exception in Champagne — only a low single-digit percentage, including prestige cuvées and rosé vintages, is produced as vintage at all. This rarity has earned them a reputation as primarily a connoisseur’s domain.

A Year of Potential

In 2019, however, several houses declared vintages more frequently than usual, as parts of the region experienced near-ideal conditions that will accompany us for years to come. A range of wines from different producers will gradually appear on the market. One that particularly impressed me: Champagne Drappier «Millésime Exception» 2019.

To understand Drappier, one must briefly leave Reims and Épernay behind. The estate is located in Urville, in the far south of Champagne, in the Aube département of the Côte des Bar. For many, this area still feels like «Champagne light», yet in reality it offers one of the most compelling answers to where the flavor profile of Champagne may be heading.

Earthy, Vinous, Structured

The Côte des Bar differs historically and geologically from the northern core zones. Instead of iconic chalk, soils here often consist of limestone marl, partly related to formations known from Chablis. The resulting wines appear less cosmetic and more earthy, vinous, and structured — closer in character to fine wine than to sparkling-wine clichés.

Substance over glamour: Champagne Drappier «Millésime Exception» 2019. (Image: courtesy)

And then there is the grape celebrated here: Pinot Noir. In the Côte des Bar, Pinot is not merely a component but often the backbone, forming the majority of the cuvées. The 2019 consists of 60 percent Pinot Noir complemented by 40 percent Chardonnay. Drappier has cultivated this style for decades: champagnes with body, mouthfeel, and a finish that lingers long beyond the glass.

The 2019 Vintage — Without the Weather Report

A vintage in Champagne is always a question of style: whether a wine leans on acidity and sharpness, or on ripeness and structure. In many cellars, 2019 is remembered as a year of excellent fruit quality — good ripeness, clear aromas, solid concentration. In the glass this usually means less green, less nervous — and instead more texture, more mid-palate pressure, and often a strongly gastronomic character.

Importantly, ripeness does not equal heaviness. Good 2019s display the modern balance many seek today: dry, precise, yet not thin. This suits Drappier — whose champagnes rely less on dosage and more on structure. The Millésime 2019 is released as Extra-Brut (5g/l dosage).

The Discovery: Drappier Millésime 2019

Drappier 2019 is a vintage champagne that feels like a statement without trying to be one. Its vinous character makes it particularly suited to the table across a wide range of dishes. Through its élevage — with primary fermentation largely in wood — it already shows notable depth and breadth despite its youth:

• Fruit: ripe apple, pear, yellow fruit tones, more citrus zest than overt freshness
• Structure: Pinot-driven, with grip and a defined mid-palate
• Aromatic depth: brioche, toast, nuttiness, fine spice — expressed more through texture than aroma

In short: a champagne for people who associate “dry” not with austerity, but with precision.

Service Guide: How to Serve Drappier 2019

Temperature

• Start at 9–10°C.
• Optimal enjoyment at 11–12°C. Too cold and it feels merely tight.

Glassware

• Tulip glass or small white-wine glass.
• A flute removes exactly what you opened it for: texture and length.

Timing

• The first glass is often the setup. The second is the moment.
• Small trick: pour a little, wait 2–3 minutes, then refill.

Food (three reliable pairings)

• Hard cheese (Comté/Gruyère): salt and nuttiness meet ripeness and structure
• Mushroom dishes: earthiness complements Pinot grip
• Grilled dishes: toast and brioche notes suddenly make culinary sense

Enjoy tasting — and above all, enjoy drinking. You can find Champagne Drappier Millésime 2019 in Zurich at Vinothek Brancaia for 75 francs. I last met the Drappier family at Wine Paris.

#cheers
Peter Jauch

«Jauch’s Selection»: The biweekly finews column in which Peter Jauch precisely classifies champagne and other fine beverages and supplements them with practical service advice.