At 34, he has earned two Michelin stars twice – and now he's back in Switzerland: Reto Brändli, most recently head chef at Berlin’s «Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer», has been running the kitchen at the «Ecco» at the Hotel Giardino Ascona since mid-April.

His return is a major event for Switzerland’s fine dining scene. Brändli is among the very few Swiss chefs who have proven themselves at the highest international level – and is now bringing his creativity back home.

Independent and full of character

Brändli is no stranger to the «Ecco»: He previously worked under Rolf Fliegauf, spending summers in Ascona and winters in St. Moritz. Now he’s in charge – and his signature is clearly visible. While he adheres strictly to the classic French structure of a menu, he expresses his creativity boldly in each individual dish.

The mood in the kitchen – easily observed from the Chef's Table with its direct view of the stove, charcoal grill, and oven – is excellent. And the workflow is so smooth, it feels as though Brändli had never been away.

Memorable langoustine

«I love structure in the kitchen,» says Brändli. His concept at the outset: a single, six-course menu that adapts to the season – plus a vegan option. The minimalism is intentional. Focus over compromise.

Anyone tasting the menu quickly understands Brändli’s intent. One example is the South African langoustine, which he grills himself over charcoal. «Shellfish tastes best when it’s fresh out of the sea and placed straight on the grill,» he says.

A signature with substance

And with a smile, he adds: «Culinarily speaking, it’s often technically overcooked – but I try to bring the feeling of eating langoustine fresh from a beach grill in Asia onto the plate.»

Signature dish: foie gras & lobster. (Image: supplied)

Brändli’s best-known dish – and one that helped cement his Michelin-starred reputation – is his foie gras with lobster. A signature plate he served in Berlin, and previously at the «Cà d’Oro» in St. Moritz.

Flavors and temperatures in harmony

Brändli masterfully defies the clichéd sweetness that typically dominates foie gras dishes. Instead, he contrasts it with layered textures, fresh aromas (basil, orange), and an ice-cold presentation of the key ingredients.

This complex interplay of temperature and flavor isn’t showy or self-indulgent – it’s a clear example of the confident, distinctive style that runs consistently through the menu.

True to form

Among the many highlights, the lamb dish deserves special mention: sourced from the Poltingen estate in Bavaria, where animals are still slaughtered traditionally on-site – a mark of quality that’s reflected in the clean, refined flavor of the meat.

«Nose to tail»: lamb from the Poltingen estate. (Image: supplied)

Brändli works with whole animals, embracing a nose-to-tail philosophy. He pairs tender lamb loin with green asparagus, fresh morels, preserved lemon – and ravioli filled with offal, delivering the bold signature moment for which he’s known.

Draw for the region

With Brändli, the Giardino Group has undoubtedly brought in a chef with a strong profile. His presence gives new culinary weight to the hotel – in a Swiss fine dining market that is world-class, but occasionally risks resting on its laurels.

Brändli’s return to Switzerland gives Ascona a new draw – one that reaches well beyond the canton’s borders.

«A world-class team of absolute pros»

The personnel aspect is noteworthy as well: «In Berlin, I had twice as many people in the kitchen – for a restaurant of similar size,» Brändli says. At the «Ecco», six people run the kitchen: four fixed roles, two flexible.

«I’ve found a world-class team of absolute professionals here,» the chef says, visibly pleased.

What’s next?

In the upcoming winter season in St. Moritz, Brändli plans to introduce two combinable menus – one built on his signature creations, the other guided by seasonal ingredients. The bar is rising.

But one thing is already clear: guests can expect bold, surprising cuisine with genuine power.

For finews.com readers, Giardino Ascona is currently offering a «Perfect Weekend» special offer.