Antonio Colaianni’s departure from Ornellaia left a void in Zurich. The Bern-raised son of Apulian immigrants has been a fixture in the city’s fine dining scene for over a decade.

Wherever he went, a Michelin star followed with almost cosmic predictability: first in the then-new «Clouds» atop Prime Tower in 2012 (in collaboration with David Martínez Salvany), then from 2012 to 2015 at «Mesa,» previously owned by Linda Mühlemann, former wife of ex-Credit Suisse executive Lukas Mühlemann; later at «Gustav» on Europaallee (2016 to 2019), and finally at Bindella’s prestigious «Ornellaia» until April 2024.

Creativity and Quality Ingredients

Over these years, Colaianni’s culinary style has remained rooted in specific principles: he uses creativity to bring out the best in his carefully chosen ingredients without cloaking them in flashy, high-tech frills.

Comeback of the Ormalingen Young Pork: fourth course at «Cucina Colaianni.» (Image: finews.com)

The chef’s style remains distinct and unwavering, blending classic haute cuisine with Italian simplicity and touches from his southern Italian heritage into a hard-to-define yet harmonious whole.

Fine Dining at Freilager 

With high expectations, we visited «La Cucina Colaianni,» where Colaianni has been presenting his gourmet cuisine since last week. Located in Zurich’s Freilager neighborhood in District 9, the chef has partnered with Marco Però, who has managed the local Trattoria Freilager since 2021.

The two restaurateurs announced their alliance this summer. Colaianni plans to add his signature touch even in the simpler trattoria and pizzeria.

Cosmopolitan Aesthetic

Our visit on opening night focused on the fine dining section. The spacious, high-ceilinged rooms with exposed concrete, leather, and wood convey an international flair on Zurich’s outskirts.

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The first course, Colaianni’s signature beef tartare, arrives in a deep glass topped with an egg yolk cream and potato foam. The dish shines through its play on flavor, texture, and temperature: warm, creamy layers on top and subtly spiced, hand-cut beef tartare below—a standout version of the classic raw beef dish.

Orechiette by Mamma Colaianni. (Image: finews.com)

An Artful Twist in the Menu Sequence

Next is a perfectly cooked halibut fillet, swimming in another of Colaianni’s signatures, a bouillabaisse-style broth. This rich, complex fish stock gives the halibut—one of the rarest and priciest fish—a regal presence.

Then comes a characteristic twist: instead of placing his «Orecchiette Fatto a Mano di Mamma Maria» (handmade by Colaianni’s nearly 90-year-old mother) at the beginning of the menu, as Italian tradition might dictate, he positions it between the fish and meat courses.

The Return of Ormalingen Young Pork

The Orecchiette, with pasta, meatballs, and tomato sauce, offers a provocative simplicity that contrasts starkly with the elegant fish and leads up to Colaianni’s longtime favorite, Ormalinger young pork—a signature he’s cultivated since before his Zurich days.

Tenderloin, belly, and a head cheek present the diner with three compelling reasons why this flavorful animal was harvested at a young age.

A composition from the Amalfi lemon brings the evening’s menu at «Cucina Collaiani» to a refreshing close.

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For the debut at his new venue, Colaianni leaves nothing to chance. He’s relying on the classics that have endeared him to the gourmet public over the years.

«Signature Dish»: Foam Crown of Egg Yolk and Potato; Beneath it, Beef Tartare. (Image: finews.com)

Aiming High in January

The Michelin-starred chef has given himself and his team two months to settle in. «By the end of December, we’ll be fully aligned on my signature creations,» he says. Then, he plans to launch his next culinary rockets.

And if the laws of culinary astronomy hold, a new star will soon be born.

At «La Cucina Colaianni,» top chef Antonio Colaianni offers a five-course menu every Thursday to Saturday at 8 p.m. For groups and events, he opens the restaurant on other occasions. The simpler «La Trattoria» serves Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. (Saturday: 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.).