No Longer Fit To Be Tied

Luckily for Sebastiaan Vadasz, the suit made a comeback in 2022 with suit sales numbers back to pre-pandemic levels. The same, however, cannot be said for the tie.

«As an accelerator for trends that were already underway, the pandemic gave the silk tie, the final push,» Vadasz said. Of course, fashion always had a way of reinventing, if not repeating, itself so who knows how long this death will last?

19 Degrees

Something that Vadasz wouldn’t be sad to see the back of, however, is the bro-vest. Originally popular among New York´s white-collar professionals on their non-client-facing days. The sleeveless vests have been sneaking their way back under blazers on men walking around Zurich over the past few weeks.

With office temperatures lowered to 19 degrees, «it is understandable that bro-vests might seem like a good way of keeping warm, but I would rather see them worn under a blazer or replaced by a cashmere jumper,» Vadasz said.

Beyond Tailored Suits

Vadasz is most likely referring to the type of jumper that alongside sneakers, jeans and coats can all be made to measure in one of his three stores located in Zurich and Basel.

Over 50 percent of Pelikamo sales are generated from the made-to-measure section of which suits are only one part, he said.

Fashion Vs Menswear

In the first few years after opening, Vadasz noticed that many clients would come back wanting to buy the same pair of trousers they had bought two or three seasons prior.

«With fashion brands, this is not possible, where the model and color of staples change regularly,» he said.

One Kilometer Radius

A former McKinsey consultant, Vadasz has been observing these «urban professionals,» located within a one-kilometer perimeter around Paradeplatz over the past ten years.

Apart from the occasional fashion bungles, he finds them «well-dressed» and has noticed that they are increasingly placing more importance on quality, not just in clothing, but in all aspects of their lives.

Holistic Approach

«Before, driving a fast car was the most important thing for a lot of men. Today many high-earners are interested in what they wear, what they eat, and where they live,» he said.

Sustainability is also increasingly in focus among his customers who will ask about the source of the raw material used in certain garments. As a small company with a workforce of 25 employees, «we rely on the larger companies’ diligence, by going with suppliers owned by LVMH or Hermès,» Vadasz said.

Smart Casual

The way forward for these men with growing awareness is smart casual, he said, grabbing an example from his new collection: An overshirt worn as a light jacket over a t-shirt or jumper. I am assuming it is not to be worn under a blazer.